One of my best friends here in Guatemala is Oliver. He is also a Community Tourism volunteer and only lives a couple of hours away from me, but because of the incredible diversity within this country, he is having an experience that is a world away from mine. Oliver lives in a small indigenous community located on the edge of Rio Cahabon, where he works on a whitewater rafting project. The community is extremely poor, and there is no running water or electricity. There are only about 5 people in town that speak Spanish, so Oliver has had to learn the Mayan language Q’eqchi very quickly in order to communicate. He literally lives in a 10 x 10 foot hut, on stilts, down by the river (picture below).
One of my favorite stories is from Oliver's first couple of days in his community. He is a marathon runner, and starts every day with a nice brisk run through the countryside. One day shortly after his run a woman showed up to his host family's home and spoke with his host mother, who then came to speak with Oliver. She did not speak Spanish, and Oliver did not yet speak Q’eqchi, so the conversation didn't go very far, but it was obvious from her hand gestures that there was a problem and it had something to do with Oliver's hair. After several minutes of baffling interaction the host mom walked away frustrated and Oliver was left perplexed.
Later that day the host father came home. He did speak Spanish and was finally able to explain the situation to Oliver. Apparently during his morning run he passed a young indigenous boy in the doorway of his home. At this point in the story it is important to explain that Oliver stands at about 5 and a half feet tall, weighs in at around 120 lbs, and is probably the most unfrightening, mild-mannered human being you will ever meet. However, having never seen a white person before, Oliver was quite a shock to this young lad, and whether he thought he saw a ghost or an evil gringo baby snatcher, he was scared into a state of terror. It turns out that the woman that had shown up at Oliver's house earlier that day was the boy's mother, and what the host mom had been trying in vain to explain was that she needed a lock of Oliver's hair, so that a special soup could be made to get the demons out of the boy.
So Oliver did the only thing he could do, he cut out a little chunk of hair and gave it to his host mom... only to be told that it was going to take much more hair then that to do the trick. So, now in his own state of shock and terror, he cut out a significant lock of hair in the name of cultural integration. This is just one example of what Oliver's life is like in the Mayan world; he is an inspiration to all of us when we think things are tough in our communities.
So anyway, Oliver recently wrote to National Geographic Adventure Magazine, and was given permission to write a short article about his project to be published in their next issue. Last week he and I met up in Coban to write the article together, and the following is what we came up with.
Oliver and I swimming in Rio Cahabon.
Overcoming Poverty With Adventure
As Rio Cahabón winds its way through the heart of the Guatemalan jungle a traveler can find adventure at every turn, but perhaps nothing as exciting or interesting as the village of Saquijá. Located way off the beaten path, this small indigenous community, on the bank of one of Guatemala’s fiercest waterways, is made up of subsistence farmers who still live as they did 100 years ago. Although these humble people don’t have many of the luxuries and modern amenities the rest of the country enjoys, such as electricity or running water, they have something of even greater value to them: the river. Rio Cahabón has sustained their community throughout its history. It has irrigated their crops, bathed their children, washed their clothes, and recently it has been helping them combat the poverty and hardship they’ve always known.
Saquijá actually means ‘whitewater’ in Q’eqchi, the Mayan dialect they speak there, and it is precisely this whitewater that has brought new hope to the community. With the help of Peace Corps and other local NGO’s, the community has come together to form the Association for the Ecological Development of Tourism in Saquijá (ADETES). This grassroots project is harnessing the power of the river and the allure of the pristine surrounding jungle by offering whitewater rafting trips to tourists.
This trip has a little something for every adventurer. As you make your way down the river with a local guide, born and raised on the water, you will encounter rapids from class III – V. You will go crashing into “El Toro Triste”, which legend has it even a bull wasn’t strong enough to overcome; sing your prayers as the raft bounces through “Rock N’ Roll” at a 45 degree angle; and be swallowed by “The Devil’s Throat” only to be spat back out into smoother waters where you can swim and enjoy the natural scenery. After working up a sufficient appetite on the water you can kick back in the outdoor restaurant and enjoy some kaqik , a traditional Guatemalan lunch prepared by the local women.
This community is inspiring not only because of its toughness on the river, but off of it as well. Despite the poverty, ADETES has worked to make a better life for its members and their families, and shines as an example of successful community development. In recent months, while working with Peace Corps, ADETES has improved its tourist services and begun to promote on a national and international level. They have built and equipped four bungalows for guests wishing to spend a night on the river’s edge with the community, they’ve opened a webpage (www.guaterafting.com) , and are continually working to offer the best experience an adventurer could hope for.
The world-class rafting of Rio Cahabón is a once in a lifetime opportunity, and as an added bonus it is only twenty minutes from the famous Semuc Champey pools and caves. Come visit!
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